Some holidays are all about a swimming pool and a sun lounger. Others leave you with tired legs, hundreds of photographs and stories you cannot wait to share. Our holiday in Crete, with a day trip to Santorini, was definitely the second kind.

We discovered towering mountains, winding roads, gorges carved into rock, waterfalls, ancient ruins, spectacular beaches and little villages that made us want to stop the car every few minutes. Crete surprised me most of all with its wild, dramatic nature. Santorini, on the other hand, impressed me with its whitewashed architecture, boutique shops and incredible views over the Aegean Sea.

Here is the journey as I experienced it — including our travel arrangements, honest hotel review, the routes we drove and the prices we actually paid.

From Dublin to Heraklion: How I Booked Our Trip

We flew from Dublin to Heraklion, Crete. I organised the holiday myself rather than buying everything as a traditional package. I booked our flights through Aviasales, which made it easy to compare flight options.

I arranged our hotel and transfer through Lastminute.ie. After landing, a private hotel transfer collected us from Heraklion Airport, and we reached Hersonissos in approximately 50 minutes. After a flight, knowing your transport is already sorted makes a real difference.

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Our Hotel: Hersonissos Palace — An Honest Review

We stayed at Hersonissos Palace in Hersonissos, on Crete’s north coast. Overall, it was a practical base for our adventures: the hotel was clean and tidy, the food was good, and the staff were friendly and helpful. The location was also very convenient for going out and exploring.

Still, I want to be fair. The hotel could do with a renovation. Some of its interiors and facilities feel dated, so if you are looking for modern luxury, this might not meet your expectations. For us, it worked because we spent most of our time discovering the island, not sitting in our room.

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Important: The €15 Tourist Tax We Had to Pay at Our Hotel

One unexpected expense during our holiday in Crete was the additional tourist tax we had to pay upon arrival at Hersonissos Palace Hotel.

We were charged €15 per room, per night, an additional government-imposed fee that was collected directly by the hotel. In Greece, this is officially known as the Climate Resilience Fee.

It was certainly not the most pleasant way to start our holiday, especially after we had already paid for our accommodation. This extra charge can add a significant amount to the total cost of a stay, particularly if you are visiting for a week or longer.

My advice: Before booking a hotel in Crete, check whether this tax is included in the advertised price or must be paid separately upon arrival. The amount varies depending on the hotel’s official classification and the time of year.

It is a small detail that can make a big difference to your holiday budget, and one I believe every traveller should know about before arriving in Greece.

Four Days with a Rental Car: The Best Way to See Crete

We rented a car for four days, booking through DiscoverCars. It was one of the best decisions of our holiday. Having a car meant we could leave Hersonissos in the morning, spend the day in completely different parts of Crete and return to our hotel in the evening.

We followed three main sightseeing routes and had a fourth rental day for more flexibility. Below are the three routes I can describe in detail. Plan for long days: the mountain roads are winding, distances take longer than they look, and you will want to stop for photographs constantly.

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Day 1: Eastern Crete — Spinalonga, Elounda and Mirabello Bay

Our first drive took us east, towards a coastline filled with beautiful bays, little villages and mountain views. We began in Plaka, where we boarded a boat to Spinalonga Island. The crossing took around 20 minutes, giving us a lovely view of the island as we approached.

We paid €14 per person for the boat and €20 per adult for entrance to Spinalonga. During our visit, admission was free for eligible visitors under 25. That benefit is subject to eligibility rules, so check the current official conditions before going.

Spinalonga is more than a pretty island. Its old fortifications, empty stone buildings and narrow streets tell a moving story. It was used as a leprosy colony from 1903 until 1957. Walking through it, with the blue sea surrounding you, feels both beautiful and strangely emotional. We spent about one hour exploring, which was enough for our visit, although anyone especially interested in history could stay longer.

Our visit to Spinalonga — photographs from the island.

From there we continued to Elounda, enjoying the calm water and expansive views of Mirabello Bay. Around Kolokytha, the landscape turns particularly picturesque, with rugged hills and astonishingly clear turquoise water. Parts of the approach can be rough, so it is worth parking carefully and walking rather than taking a rental car down an unsuitable track.

Next came Agios Nikolaos, an attractive coastal town built around Lake Voulismeni, where waterfront cafés and restaurants are perfect for a leisurely break. We also included the mountain village of Kritsa and the nearby historic Panagia Kera church on our route. Narrow streets, traditional houses and mountain scenery offered a very different side of Crete from the beach resorts.

My favourite part of the day: Spinalonga, for the combination of powerful history and beautiful scenery. It was an excellent introduction to eastern Crete.

Day 2: Kourtaliotiko Gorge, Waterfalls and the Southern Coast

This route showed me the Crete I loved most. Heading towards Rethymno, we passed historic streets, the Venetian harbour and the impressive fortress overlooking the town before continuing into the mountains.

Then we reached Kourtaliotiko Gorge — one of the absolute highlights of my entire holiday. Huge rock walls rise above the road; every turn reveals another incredible mountain view. What makes the gorge even more special is the presence of natural springs and waterfalls hidden among the rocks. There is something extraordinary about finding running water surrounded by such rugged scenery.

I could have spent far longer here. If you love mountains, waterfalls and dramatic landscapes, please don’t rush straight through. Stop at safe, designated viewpoints, admire the cliffs and explore accessible paths only when conditions permit. The steps can be steep and surfaces slippery near water, so proper footwear matters.

Kourtaliotiko Gorge and the dramatic mountain landscapes of Crete.

We continued towards Preveli, where a river runs through an extraordinary palm grove before reaching the sea. The panorama of palms, cliffs and blue water is unlike an ordinary beach view. The descent to the beach from the upper parking area involves many steps, so bring water and suitable shoes.

Our route also took in the relaxed coastal village of Plakias, the beautiful bay at Damnoni Beach and Spili, a mountain village famous for its line of lion-head water fountains. Each stop felt different, but the towering mountains and gorge scenery stayed with me most.

My favourite part of the day: Kourtaliotiko Gorge, without question. It was wild, dramatic and exactly the kind of place I travel to discover.

Day 3: Matala Caves, Mountain Trails and Zaros Lake

Our third route took us into southern Crete, where historical sites and open landscapes lead towards a spectacular coastline. We included Gortyna, with its ancient remains, and Phaistos, whose Minoan palace ruins sit above the beautiful Messara Plain.

But Matala was the real highlight. Its famous caves are carved directly into the cliffs beside the beach. They were used in antiquity and became associated with a hippie community decades later. Looking up at the honeycombed rock from the sand is impressive — but I strongly recommend actually climbing into the caves that are open to visitors. It changes the entire experience.

And please don’t stop there. Explore the hills on the opposite side of Matala Beach, too. The walking trails reveal breathtaking views back across the bay, its cave-filled cliffs, the sea and the surrounding mountains. For anyone who loves photography and hiking, this area deserves extra time. Be careful on the uneven rocks and avoid the most exposed climbs in extreme heat.

Matala — its extraordinary caves and coastal landscape.

Nearby, Kommos Beach stretches along an open, more natural coastline, with plenty of space to admire the sea and mountains. Later we went to the Zaros Lake area, where greenery, rocky hills and peaceful surroundings make a striking contrast with the coast. Seeing wild goats in the mountain landscape was one of those little moments that makes independent travel memorable.

Zaros Lake — a peaceful stop surrounded by nature.

My favourite part of the day: Matala — especially climbing into the caves and walking up the hillside for the panoramic views.

Santorini: A Day Trip from Crete

While still at home in Ireland, I had booked a day excursion to Santorini for €179 per person. Once we arrived in Crete, however, I found a better deal through a local agent. I cancelled the earlier booking and booked again for €155 per person — a difference of €24 per person.

Our excursion included collection from and return to the hotel, ferry tickets, transport on Santorini and a guide, with several language options available. The ferry journey took approximately 1 hour and 50 minutes each way, and we had around five hours on the island itself.

Oia: The Place I Loved Most

Oia was everything I had imagined Santorini could be: whitewashed houses, blue church domes, beautiful boutiques, narrow streets and extraordinary views from high above the sea. On a sunny day, the colours are unbelievable. I loved wandering through the little shops and cafés and simply looking out across the caldera.

It is also extremely crowded. People queue for photographs at the famous viewpoints, and the narrow streets can feel packed. Still, for me, Oia was the star of Santorini. The little boutiques, the food, the cafés and that view were worth the visit.

Fira: Would I Visit Again?

Our excursion also took us to Fira, Santorini’s main town. It has shops, restaurants and caldera views, but personally I wasn’t nearly as impressed as I had been by Oia. If I could change one part of our excursion, I would give travellers the choice to stay longer in Oia or continue to Fira. With only five hours available, I would much rather have explored Oia at a slower pace.

Was the excursion worth €155? Yes, for me. I am very glad I saw Santorini. But five hours is not enough to appreciate it all. If I returned, I would consider spending a night there to explore without rushing and see the island after the day-trip crowds leave.

Crete or Santorini: Which Did I Prefer?

They are beautiful in completely different ways. Santorini is famous for its architecture, dramatic sea views, pretty boutiques and postcard-perfect streets. Crete has enormous variety: mountains, waterfalls, gorges, villages, ruins, caves and long stretches of coastline.

For me, Crete was the winner for nature and exploration. I loved Oia, and I would happily visit it again. But the memory of driving through steep mountain roads, standing beneath huge gorge walls and finding beautiful natural places stays with me even more.

What We Paid: Useful Price Guide

These are prices from our October 2026 visit, not guaranteed current prices. Admission concessions may depend on residency, nationality and documentation. Hotel, flight, car-hire and excursion prices vary with dates and availability.

My Tips for Planning a Similar Trip

• Rent a car. It gives you the freedom to experience Crete beyond the resorts.
• Allow extra time for mountain driving. Roads are often narrow and winding.
• Wear good shoes and bring water. The best viewpoints, gorges and caves often involve steps and uneven trails.
• Don’t rush Kourtaliotiko Gorge. It was one of my absolute highlights.
• Explore both sides of Matala Bay. The caves and opposite hillside have fantastic views.
• Compare Santorini day-trip prices. Check exactly what is included and read cancellation terms before changing bookings.
• Give Oia as much time as possible. If you can stay overnight, even better.

My Final Thoughts

I went to Crete expecting sunshine and beautiful beaches. I came home remembering towering cliffs, winding mountain roads, waterfalls, ancient caves, peaceful lakes and unexpected views around every corner. Santorini gave us the beautiful white-and-blue scenery I had dreamed of seeing, but it was Crete’s mountains and gorges that truly captured my heart.

If you are planning a Greek island holiday and enjoy exploring, I hope our journey inspires you to go beyond the hotel and discover this remarkable island for yourself.

Which would you choose: wild mountain landscapes in Crete or the blue-domed beauty of Santorini?

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